This charming historic town with a massive fortified castle is one of the most beautiful in Istria—and perhaps that’s why it was featured on the original Croatian banknotes.

The steep hill dotted with individual Motovun houses and lush green trees creates a unique scenery even from a distance. It is originally a Celtic town called Montana; its name means Town on a Hill.

We drive all the way up to the upper parking lot, which is located behind the Church of Saint Margaret (Crkva sv. Margareta). We’re traveling during the tourist season, so we have to brace ourselves with patience. Fortunately, we don’t have to wait too long—just about 5 minutes—and a parking spot opens up for us. The best solution, of course, is to arrive in town around 10 a.m., when the town is just beginning to welcome visitors.

The walk from the parking lot to the historic centre then leads through ancient, romantic alleyways with nostalgic corners.

We pass under the tower known by the inscription carved above its entrance portal as the New Gate (Nova vrata). The tower is connected to the Town Palace (Komunalna palača) from the 13th century, which is the best-preserved Romanesque public building in Croatia. In front of the Town Palace, another magnificent view opens up before us—a sunlit green valley.

We continue upward, passing under the Main Gate (Glavna vrata), which leads to the oldest part of town.

The old town is surrounded by medieval walls, the oldest sections of which date back to the 11th century. Access to the walls requires a fee, and you can walk along them to circle the upper part of the town while enjoying views of the surrounding valley. However, we skip this tourist attraction and instead wander through the winding alleys, which also offer beautiful glimpses of the landscape.

Right on the upper square, we also visit the 17th-century Renaissance Church of Saint Stephen (Crkva sv. Stjepan). This parish church, featuring Mannerist elements on its façade, was designed based on the plans of the famous Italian architect Andrea Palladio—the creator of a series of Venetian villas now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Behind the church stands a 13th-century bell tower, which, at 27 meters high, is the town’s most prominent landmark.

Surrounding the town are sprawling vineyards that produce delicious local wines. In the predominantly oak Motovun Forest, truffles grow—a highly prized and expensive gourmet delicacy. These specialties can be tasted in local restaurants or purchased in one of the many nearby shops.

 

Lunch tip:

On the way to the historic heart of Motovun, we discovered the family-run restaurant "Pod napun" which serves excellent cuisine and offers an amazing view of the Mirna River valley. Plus, it’s located away from the tourist-crowded upper town.

We recommend trying their homemade pasta (pljukanci) with game meat.

Address: Ul. Gradizol 33, Motovun